Flashmag Digizine Edition Issue 86 October 2018 | Page 37

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TRENDY

Open the Eye" is the literal translation of the expression " XULY.Bët " from the Wolof, main language of Senegal. That's what we say to someone who looks at you with insistence, the response of the watched to the looking, and a protection against "the evil eye". Game

consciences and looks, the label XULY.Bët is a laboratory creator of trends, fundamentally open to contemporaries, attached to the diversity of cultures and their creative osmosis of new energy, an invitation to dialogue and to keep the open eye.

Lamine Badian Kouyaté has been in the aisles of the fashion system since 1992, when he presented his first collection Xuly.Bet in the rain outside the tent of Jean Paul Gaultier. The following season, he moved to the Tuileries, where he showed his clothes on models wearing radios, who came and went in a tourist bus. More revolutionary than the guerrilla style, the presentation was made from clothes, salvaged from thrift stores and tinkered together. Unique pieces of what could be called street couture.

Cy Bianco, the character of Forest Whitaker in Robert Altman's Prêt-à-Porter, is inspired by Kouyaté. "I like his instinctive and careless hand," Karl Lagerfeld told Vogue in 1993.

Born in Mali, Kouyaté moved to France to study architecture and immersed himself in the club scene of the 1980s. Self-taught, his first pieces were made for his friends of nocturnal outings. The line, Xuly.Bet of the designer was founded in 1989. Since he has received several awards including the ANDAM prize in France and the New York Times named him designer of the year in 1994. In 1997, Kouyaté moved his show in New York and opened a boutique on Orchard Street,

Flashmag October 2018 www.flashmag.net

Fashion & Trend

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XULY.Bët fashion

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